Somewhere I belong

July 15, Time 8 am:
Just woke up, feeling nostalgic and thinking about life. Its been 4 years I have been planning to go to Ladakh and just planning. Work will be there always and next year might get married. “Till when you will plan”, asked myself. Got up from bed and got ready for office. Riding to office and talking to myself. “LETS GO TO LADAKH”, says my heart and I want to listen to it now.. Yes I am going to Ladakh.
Me gomsi real name Gautam: narrator of the story.

Called up Nipin: Bro planning for Ladakh..
Nipin: Sry dude I cant go.. Anyways best of luck. How will you go??
Me: Will ask one or two other friends. If no one goes, will go alone.. Nipin : Ok, Best of Luck..

July 27 : I will also mail my ride plan to Som(My ex-boss, more of a friend), Anyways I will go alone coz no one is joining.
July 28: Nipin calls up : Bro I will join you Me: Yippie. Ok I will plan everything.. Just be ready and think of things we need to carry along. July 30: Som calls up: I will join too..
Me : Gr8.. Lets send the bikes to Ambala Cantt(my home town). Lets send them in Ist week of Aug.
Aug 5 : Bikes send by Gati to Ambala..
Aug 6 : Som calls: Have you seen the news? Me: What happened?? Som: Flood in Ladakh..
Me: OMG.. Ok I’ll check Reached office, checked news.. Heart break.. The most beautiful place on this earth devastated.. Felt sad and sorrowful the day long for people of Ladakh. Should I do the trip?? People advising to go as well as not to go.. Heart against going to Ladakh as don’t want to enjoy at a place where people are mourning.. But tickets have been booked, bikes sent, arrangements made.. What to do ??
Nipin, and Som leave decision on me but insist on going somewhr.. Then where it is?? It is Spiti.. A place I would now call a second heaven on earth after Ladakh.. With doubts in mind we three me, Som and Nipin left Ambala on 15th Aug, 12 noon for an uncertain trip to Spiti.. I had no plans and no ideas on visiting any places in this journey.. But future had something different for us.. I named this trip as Visit to Land of Valleys, coz during this trip we covered a lot a valleys viz. Sangla valley, Pin Valley, Spiti Valley, Kullu Valley, Chenab Valley..

Day 1, Aug 15th 2010: We started our journey from Ambala Cantt towards Shimla. It was a late start as we started around 12. My parents were fascinated to see me wearing all the riding stuff. Bike outside my Home in Ambala Cantt..

Trip Meter Anyways after bidding them goodbye we hit NH1 for a small time and took the deviation towards Chandigarh on NH22. It was a hot day and in no time we reached Zirakpur, whr we had to take deviation towards Shimla. The road from Zirakpur was okaish and lot of road construction is going on till Kalka. Kalka was a nightmare. Being Sunday there was a big traffic jam and it took us a while to cross Kalka. However as we crossed Kalka weather become pleasant and the road also improved. Smwhr after Kalka Sandwich Time We had lunch on a road side dhaba before Solan. Crossed Solan and were cruising towards Shimla. Some photos enroute.. Around 10 Kms before Shimla, it started to rain. We changed into rain gear, but the rain was shirt lived. Cruising nicely we hit Shimal before 6 and were searching for a hotel We found this hotel, Hotel Royal Oaks in the way to Lakad Bazar near Arya girls College. It had vry nice room and asking price was Rs 1100 for 3 bedroom. Deal was done. The hotel rooms look like this… In the evening later we all went for a walk to the Mall road. Som ended his day watching English premier league and all went for a peaceful sleep often disturbed by Nipin’s snoring. Another Hotel Visible from Hotel Balcony.. The Mall, Shimla

Day 2, Aug 16th 2010:
Everybody woke up late as the plan was to ride till Narkanda only, visiting Kufri and see Hatu Peak. But first on the agenda was to visit Jakhu Temple. The weather was cloudy and after a nice breakfast started for Jakhu temple.

Morning view from Hotel Balcony

Jakhu Temple

After coming back from Jakhu, we started towards Narkanda. But everything was not going to be as planned. As we reached the junction where the road goes towards Kufri, we encountered a traffic Jam. Police told us that the road to Kufri is blocked due to heavy slush and we have to take Mishobra route to go to Theog and then to Narkanda. So going to Kufri was ruled out. As it started raining I wasn’t able to take muck photos.
The road to Theog via Mishobra is a nightmare for a bike rider during rain. Actually it is a kutcha road and it had turned slushy due to rains.

The road via Mishobra

But the views around were amazing..

We were not able to maintain a speed of above 20 Kmph and it took us nearly 3 hrs to reach Theog. It was a relief to hit the black Tarmac just before Theog.

Welcome Relief..

It was as if traffic jams had become part of our life tht day. As soon as we entered Theog, here also there was a long traffic jam coz of Theog festivel and people from all around had thronged the place. After taking an hour to cross Thoeg we were welcomed by vry bad roads which accompanied us some 8 kms before Narkanda.

Apples..

Amazing views and roads just before Narkanda..

By the time we reached Narkanda, it was 6. We checked at the PWD rest house and the caretaker agreed to give us room for Rs 400 per room. We took 2 rooms for Rs 700 as Nipin had to sleep in other room due to snoring issue.. As soon as we parked our bikes and started dislodging the luggage, it started raining cats and dogs.. There while we were settling, we met another biking group who were also planning for Spiti.

Owing to slush on the way, our bikes and saddle bags were in a condition of dismay, totally covered in mud. Both got washed in the rain.
Had a fulfilling dinner at the Hotel(don’t remember the name) directly in front of PWD rest house entrance and called it a day. Hatu peak was ruled out due to cloudy weather and Sarhan was the plan for next day.

I had my first fall of the trip on this day.. Some 15 kms before Narkanda, bike just had a skid and till today i am trying to find out the cause

Day 3 Aug 17th 2010:
Woke up to a cold cloudy morning in Narkanda.. The view from guest house is just amazing.

Since Hatu peak was out of agenda, after having a heavy breakfast we started towards Rampur. The roads from Narkanda to Rampur are a Biker’s delight, nice smooth curves…

After 20 kms from Narkanda, one views Satluj for the first time and it wads to be our companion for next few days. The drive becomes more beautiful from here. Satluj by roadside..
First view of River Sutlej

As we descended to Rampur weather became very hot as it was sunny.

We had lunch at Himachal Tourism hotel at Rampur and soon started towards Sarhan. I was expecting to reach Sarhan by 3.

And as I expected I reached Sarhan at 3. I found the PWD rest house and was waiting outside for others to follow. And all of a sudden my mobile rang, and it was Nipin telling that his bike has got punctured some 5 kms before Sarhan.. Had to ride back and we decided to fix the puncture ourselves as the nearest shop was in Jeori which was 12kms away. It took us a gud 1 hr to get the puncture fixed. Meanwhile locals treated us with delicious apples and children surrounded us out of curiosity.
Som fixing sm part

Future rider

Finally reached Sarhan and asked the PWD circuit house caretaker for the room, who agreed to give us the room for Rs 500.
After settling down, Me and Som went out to see Bhatkali temple and Nipin preferred rest over a visit to temple. Bhatkali of one of many very beautiful temples I have visited. It was neat and clean and had marvelous architecture. It is mandatory to wear the cap before paying homage to the goddess. The cap is available in temple premise. We spent a gud 1 hr at the temple and came back to the rest house.
The Bhatkali Temple

PWD circuit House Sarhan

Dinner was ready by 8 and man wat a tasty dinner. This rest house has one of the best cook among all rest houses we stayed in.
Later in the night me and Som decided to go for a stroll outside. As soon as we stepped out of the rest house, it was pitch dark and there was some rumbling noise in the bushes nearby. Som said tht it might be a bear or smthing and we decided against going further. Later his haunch was confirmed by caretaker that there are bears in tht area.
So we decided to call it a day.

Day 4 18th Aug 2010:

It was an early start from Sarhan and the plan was to go to Sangla Valley. As we left Sarhan, crossed Jeori and proceeded towards Wangtu, the view only started getting better.

On the way we saw a lot of foreigners cycling towards Kinnaur. He was frm Czech republic

The road is Wangtu is rough due to ongoing construction of JP hydro project. Thankfully it wasn’t raining.
First time we crossed Sutlej.. At Wangtu

From Wangtu, one has to go to Karcham, to take the diversion for Sangla valley. As the climb started the beauty of nature increases manifolds.

Nipin feeling like God..

We reached Sangla at around 2 pm and checked into the PWD guest house.

Kinnar Kailash Peak.. Hidden in clouds

After having hot cup of coffee and mutton momos we proceeded towards Chithkul, the last village accessible by road on Indian side in Kinaur district. The view from Chitkul are beyond description. Check the photos.
On the way to Chitkul

I Just cant stop clicking this

At Chitkul

Kids greet u everywhr in Himachal

Chk out the name of Dhaba

Chk the expressions

The route to Chitkul was full of many watercrossing and one particularly was a bit challenging.

Some evening shots

In the evening went for a stroll around Sangla town. It is a prosperous town as ppl earn a lot frm apple orchards. It is also know for its beautiful girls..

Day 5 19th Aug 2010:
It was a cold and cloudy morning in Sangla. We decided to visit Kamru Fort. It is a very old fort and was used to commemorate the rajya-abhishek of king of Sarhan and to celebrate other religious festivities. The fort had temple of Kamakhaya Devi and here also it is mandatory to wear a cap before going in to the temple.

Start Point to the fort. Its almost a 1 to 1.5 Kms walk up.

After visiting Kamru fort, we started descend to Karcham and the plan to to go to Kalpa.
On the way to Kalpa

First view of snow capped peaks during the journey

Kalpa is about 8 Kms frm Recong Peo. Recong Peo is the headquarter of Kinnaur District. It’s quite a developed city and youngster own most of the latest bikes, with bullet with a huge sound quite a fad.
Our plan was not to stay at Kalpa and proceed to Sumdo or Puh. As we reached Kalpa, it turned out to be that we were smitten by its beauty and decided to stay for a day here. Unfortunately we didn’t get a PWD rest house and had to stay in a hotel . Kinnar kailash peak is also visible from Kalpa but since Mr Kinnar was in no mood to oblige us, was hidden beneath the clouds. But we were not disappointed. We had first views of Snow capped peaks from here. If visiting Kalpa, eat at HPTDC restaurant. We had a delicious lunch here.

The view from Kalpa HPTDC restaurant

Awesome isnt it

The view from our hotel.. Kalpa town

Dream Home

After settling at the hotel, we went to see Suicide point. The landmark for this is a board of Pradhanmantri gram sadak yojna. It’s a straight cliff and it was really scary to look down. One had to lay down on a rock to see below.

Suicide point landmark

Nipin teaching us how to commit suicide..

After this we went to see Kalpa monastery and temple.

The Temple.. It was closed

A very old and beautiful painting.. Chkout the date

Evening Colours

Later in the evening the hotel guys had arranged for Special Apple and peach wine which was simply superb. If going in apple season, do try this local wine(but don’t drink and drive).

Day 6 20th Aug 2010:
Morning in Kalpa

Day started a bit late frm Kalpa and after having Brunch at Recong Peo, we started towards Puh.
Towards Puh..

As we approached Puh, landscape started changing and weather changed from cloudy, rainy, gloomy, dull to Sunny, beautiful and cheerful As we reached PUH, I was unable to contain my excitement due to the changed scenery. The landscape which I had only seen in Photos was right in front of me. We decided not to stop in Puh and ride on to Nako.

Puh.. First view..

Heaven Isn’t it

The scenery kept on changing from good to better and we left our many days companion Sutlej behind in PUH and now on Spiti river will be our companion.
Confluence of Sutlej and Spiti Rivers

Spitian Will ass

The green patch is LEO village

We reached Nako in evening at around 5 and got reports from locals that the notorious Maling Nala was not on its best tht day and it cud be crossed at that time of the evening. So we started riding towards our first major challenge of the whole ride “The Mighty Maling Nala.”

Some pics at the outside of Nako Village

Nako Lake .. Smaller version

The Crossing of Mighty Maling Nala:

Maling Nala is a big water stream one has to cross on going from Nako to Sumdo. The Water from slopes comes to a level on the road and then again falls down. So it would not be wrong to say that road is actually a barrier to the flow of this stream. The local story about this Nala is that a Lama has cursed this Nala and there will never be a road which can be built on it.
As we approached the Nala, my heart was pounding due to uncertainty. Me and Som were the first to reach there. The first view was like this.

I and Som started on discussing the possibilities to cross it and were very unsure about crossing it. Water was chilly cold and depth of water was unsure. Nipin also came in the meanwhile and while we were still discussing on ways to cross it, a Himachal Roadways bus came. As it crossed the Nala, it gave us a fare idea on the flow and depth of water. It gave us the much needed confidence to cross it. Since me and Nipin were on Avenger(Low ground clearance) and Som on Pulsar(Gud ground clearance), it was decided that Som will cross it first. Som started. Everybody’s heart was pounding and 1-2-3 he crossed it successfully. Next it was my turn. To see somebody doing a thing and doing it yourself is a different dish. I changed into Sandals frm boots and folded my Jeans sufficiently high. As I approached the water, I was for the first time a little scared while driving my bike. The water was so cold tht in a matter of seconds I was feeling a thousand needles piercing my skin. The best part about doing such things is your mind is at peace. And in no time I was on the other side. Although I along with my bike was almost knee deep in water just before the end of the stream. I felt so elated on crossing as if I have accomplished so much.

Nipin getting ready to cross THE MALING

OOPS!! cold water

Midway..

Almost crossed

Yahoo!!..

It is true, life is joyful if one enjoys little things. This was such a moment. Nipin also crossed it successfully and this is wat we were greeted with after crossing the Nala.

One of my favs

After crossing Maling Nala, we drove till Sumdo in pitch dark and reached Sumdo at around 8.We directly went to PWD rest house and searched for the caretaker. After 2-3 mins the caretaker arrived(he was drinking somewhr with his friends) and said rooms were available but costly. We asked how costly. He told us Rs250 per room. Me and Som were looking at each other controlling our laughter and agreed to take the rooms. This rest house is one of the most beautiful rest house. It is at the bank of Spiti river and the walls are of wood and rooms are beautifully furnished. We made Maggie for ourselves (since caretaker was drunk) and crashed for the day.

Day 7 Aug 21, 2010:

Since Maling Nala had been crossed a day earlier, we were relaxing on this morning and the target for the day was to go to Mud, visiting Geo village and then Tabo on the way. So the ride was a shorter one only.
We started at around 9 from Sumdo after having delicious aloo paranthas at Sumdo guest house.

Morning outside Sumdo guest house.

Soon we found the deviation to Geo village. The village is about 8 Kms from the deviation and the place where Mummy is kept about 1.5 Kms from the village. This village has born the burnt of recent flash floods in Spiti Valley. There was a rumor that the mummy was also washed away in this flood, but I am not sure if its true or not.

The deviation towards Geo village

Geo village from distance

Towards Geo village

Kids greeting us at the outside of a village

Anyways we reached the place where mummy is placed. Since there were no tourist, the room was locked and we had to wait arung 15 mins for someone to get the key from the village. After room was unlocked, it was this wat we saw and we were amazed, spellbound on seeing the mummy.

For the villagers this mummy is of religious importance as it is considered of being of a Lama and around 500-700 years old. The most amazing part is it still grows the hairs and nails.
Geo has some amazing view of surroundings.

From Geo we started towards Tabo. I was just to excited to think anything else. I was living my dream.

There’s one Chandigarh in Spiti also

Spot the bridge

Luri village

We reached Tabo and wat we saw there is unexplainable in words. I have nvr seen such a monastery in my life and its so well kept. We spent almost 3-4 hrs seeing the monastery. Tabo also has a PWD guest house and a hostel run by the monastery.

Stupa outside Tabo monestry

Colors.. How many??

Aum Mani Padme Hom

Back side of monastery

After having lunch at Tabo we moved on towards pin valley. But fate has something else in store for us. Before a village Schichling, I gave lift to a local who advised me to go to Dhankar. We were deciding on skipping Dhankar. After dropping him at the village, I still had idea of skipping Dhankar. But when I saw this, I just could resist my from changing my mind to go to Dhankar. Dhankar is at deviation from man road. It’s a ascent of around 10-12 kms till Dhankar.

Towards Dhankar

This is wat made me go to Dhankar

The houses are of Schichiling village

Ascent towards Dhankar

As we reached Dhankar, I was more and more sure that it was a gud decision to come to Dhankar. Since there were many tourist vehicles in Dhankar, I was skeptical of getting a place to stay in Dhankar and soon our fears turned true. The only hotel in Dhankar run by Dhnakar monastery was full. We were disappointed. But again fate came to our rescue. There were some children playing and seeing us coming back from hotel one of them approached us and asked us didi we need any place to stay. He told that we can live in their house as they run a home stay. We reached his home which was very near to Dhankar monastery, and checked out the rooms. The charges were 500 bucks for a room and food is free. Me and Som were looking at each others face in disbelief. Food free.. We reconfirmed and the answer was affirmative. We settled down and went to see Dhankar monastery. Its an amazing place to visit.

Entrance of Dhankar Village

Dhankar monastery is on a cliff

Best photgraph i got of Dhankar

Wat are these?? Sheeps

We spent a lot of time here and by the time we came back it had started to get dark. I tried some night shot.. Chk em out.

The time was almost 8 and it was dinner time. Spiti region has some of the most amazing people in this world. The way this family treated us is beyond explanation. So much hospitality. God bless them. The family consisted of four members, Husband, wife and their two sons Tashi and Zangpo. Zangpo was particulary a very intelligent and naught kid. He entertained us through out and all of us were laughing with our stomach held. If somebody is going to Dhankar, wud suggest them to stay at their place: Tashi guest house. It’s a lonely 2 storied house about half kilometer before monastery.

This is Zangpo and in background his dad

Brothers. Zangpo and Tashi

He was really gud at rotating the plate on his finger..

After having all the fun and a great dinner, we called it a day. Next day it was my birthday and me and Som decided to track to Dhankar lake. I got some amazing photos at the lake.

Day 8 Aug 22, 2010 (My Birthday):

I had planned the ride to Ladakh before and the plan was to spend my birthday at Pangong Tso. But alas!!!
However indeed being a hesitant towards even idea of trekking, I said a yes to idea of trekking to Dhankar Lake when Som wake me up at 6 in the morning and asked me to join. I thought let this me a birthday present to myself.
We started the Trek at about 6:30 and the morning views were amazing. Sun was just coming out of hills and presented splendid morning colours.

The lake is around 3-4 Kms from Dhankar village and the ascent is not too steep except for one or two places. As we reached the lake, what I saw was a true birthday gift I got. I didn’t regret for a moment to come to this place. Here are some pictures.

After a while the water became totally still and this is wat I saw.

Returning to Dhankar

This is rotated by the water of the stream

Since it was my birthday, it was essential for me to cal my girlfriend and my parents. Also Som hadn’t called his home for past 2-3 days. So it was quite-essential for both of us to call home. So the plan was to go to Kaza first, make calls and go to pin valley in the evening. But as was evident nothing always goes as planned. Tashi also came with us till Kaza as he had to go to school in Bilaspur. As we reached Kaza and it was a Sunday, almost all the STD shops were closed. I was heartbroken. But Tashi found a friend of his Dad, who had a mobile phone. He also offered to be our guide for the pin valley for free in case we stay at the place of his friend in Mud(Pin valley). We made calls from his mobile and that day plan was to stay in Kaza, got to Ki and Kibber, visit Kaza monastery and party in the evening.
After having lunch, we along with Vicky (friend of Tashi, and our guide now) started towards Ki. The road till Ki is awesome. And the views were fantastic.

The Ki monastery

Entrance to Ki monastery

After seeing Ki monastery we started for Kibber along a bad road. Kibber is at a height of above 4000 mts and it’s a fascinating village. We spend close to one and a half hour in Kibber.

On the way to Kibber

On returning to Kaza we visited the Kaza monastery on the way. Later in the evening we had cake cutting ceremony at German Bakery in Kaza and ended with a booze party later. Next plan was to go to Pin valley, one of the very famous destination among Israelies.

Kaza Monastery

The Indian Oil pump in Kaza.. Is the claim true..

Day 9, Aug 23rd 2010:

The day started early. Kaza is a place many may not like. First thing is its hard to get good food here. Second the city might be open or close for a number of reasons. Its costly.
So none of us was in mood to stay in Kaza a day longer and the plan was to hit Pin valley asap. Along with Vicky, the guide, we started from Kaza to Pin Valley.
The first destination was Kungri Monastery. Its also one of important monastery of that reason. Beside the usual stuff, the best thing we had was free lunch with Lamas followed by Tea. We tried to understand their living styles, what they study etc. It was a fantastic experience.

The number of Buddhas specify the age of Monastery

The Monastery Museum

A small history of Spiti

After the monastery,we started towards Sagnam, crossed Sagnam and instead of first going to Mud, we went to Tailing as out guide belonged to Tailing and wanted to meet his wife and show us the village. The road was very bad but the scenery around made up for it.

Sagnam Village

The diversion to Mud and Tailing. The left one takes to Mud and the right one to Mud

The Tailing Village

As we reached the village, guide’s wife was away in fields and he went to call her. Meanwhile the village children surrounded us and I distributed all the chocolates and Dates I had, as I cudn’t resist giving it to them.

The most beautiful girl

Meanwhile his wife arrived and we went to his home for a cup of Goat’s milk tea. Its initially a little difficult to drink but after a while tastes better.

The Guide (Vicky) and his wife)

After spending some time in Tailing, we started for Mud, and in about an hour or so (owing to bad roads), we reached Mud.

Towards Mud

Children were Euphoric on seeing us.. At Mud

View from Mud Village.. Love at first site

As promised earlier we stayed in our guide’s relative place. It was cheap, Rs200 bucks for a room. The views at Mud were simply amazing. Soon after having linch we decided to head for a glacier which seemed nearby. We climbed for half an hour, but soon owing to very high winds and loose stones we decided to quit and return back. All of us were simply amazed by the place and decided to stay for a day here. This place was flooded by Israelies. Although there was a guy from Germany who had been visitng India for like 40 years, a French Couple and an Italian couple, but others were all Israelies and we were the only Indian tourist there. It felt like being in a foreign land.

This is were we turned back from hiking

This shot was taken at night 8 pm

Moon coming out..

At the end of the day we had drinks (local Apple wine) with an Isarely couple and the German guy. The couple was on their honeymoon. It was kinda surprise for us that they were having honeymoon in a place like Mud, which doesn’t have even a good hotel, but these people love India. Although most of Israelies come here to trek to Bhaba pass and Pin Parbati valley, but I guess there is more to it.. No prize for getting it right.

The plan for the next day was to go for a small Trek, but Nipin decided to help the French guy, who had come for Trekking, to take him to Kaza as he had forgotten all their food in the bus they had come to Mud. So the plan got cancelled and instead we (me and Som) along with the French guy’s girlfriend tried giving a shot to plucking the peas in the field along with the villagers and Nipin will go to Kaza with the French guy. Sorry I don’t remember their names (were complicated).

Mud Village

Peas

Plucking peas with locals

I took the rough path as against the usual path to go to the fields and we all spent nearly two hours their after which the weather worsened and we had to return to the hotel. It rained for most of the day and I spend my time reading books. The next day Nipin was in no mood to go since he said it was unfare that we have rested for a day and he hadn’t. So the next day we were lazily cozying around doing nothing and chatting with almost every foreigner there.

Some more night shots

She was very happy getting her photos clicked

Day 12, Aug 26 2010:
After spending three days in Mud, it was time to bid gud bye to Pin Valley and the last item on our agenda was Chandrataal.

Way to Kaza

The Pin river valley

Bridge connecting Pin valley to Main road

Kaza

Towards Losar

Cyclists

Can you spot the face (mountain formation like tht)

The road up the hill

Plan was to reach Chandrataal same day, but plans go haywire in a place like Spiti. As we started from Mud, crossed Kaza, views increasingly kept amazing and due to lot of photo breaks in between, we managed to reach Losar at around 3:30 and decided to stay in Losar. We got PWD rest house here as well. This area seems to be a lot affected from cloud burst. Some broken bridges, large amount of slush cornered on roads, all tell the story. Losar is a small beautiful town and kinda acts as a gateway for the ones coming from Manali side. We had lunch at the dhaba just adjacent to Police checkpost and the dhaba owner’s hospitality was just amazing. After clicking some photos we pretty much called it a day. Next 2 days were going to be unforgettable days for me..

Some photos from Losar

PWD rest house

Next destinations

Losar village

My fav

Day 13, Aug 27 2010:
The Plan for today was to ride to Chandrataal, spend some time and proceed to Manali. But but but, when plan works?? We were expecting a bumpy ride as most of people have already alerted us about the things to come next.

Morning at Losar

After having breakfast at Losar and getting ourselves registered at Losar police checkpost, we started towards Kunzum Pass.

Towards Kunzum Pass

After a while of bad roads, steep ascent started and it was turning out to be a enjoyable challenging ride. Nipin’s bike was giving trouble as his chain had become loose. But we were somehow managing. As we neared Kunzum pass, encountered a quails which was struggling to climb up. It had to vacate all the passengers in order to climb a particular ascent.

The place where qualis gave up

Soon we were at Kunzum pass. The view was awesome. Soft rays of sun caressing oneself and snow capped peaks. I don’t know why, but I was screaming with joy. It was the highest altitude I have ever gone to. I was happy with a feeling as if I have achieved a lot. This is where life seems worth living.

My beloved at Kunzum Pass

The Trio

We visited Kunzum devi temple and there is a local belief that if one tries to stuck a coin with true heart. It sticks to the rock. As expected for all three of us it didn’t work.

The temple

The rock is in this structure

After clicking photographs there, we started towards Chandrataal and reached the deviation which goes towards Chandrataal.

Towards Chandrataal

The sign board indicating deviation

The real fun of ride starts from here. It’s too tricky for 4 wheelers and less for a 2 wheeler. But its fun a lot as there are places where u feel to be very careful but go against it and enjoy the ride.

Earlier one could go till Chandrataal on vehicle, but now the forest department is developing it as a protected area and have stopped the movement of vehicles till the lake. I think it’s a great step in curbing the menace of people for whom natural beauty means nothing and such places are just an excuse to have a picnic or booze.

Place where one has to park

The parking for vehicles is about 3 kms before the lake from where one has to hike till the place. There are two types of tented accommodation available here. One cheap and without a toilet and other costly but with a toilet.
As we were nearing the place where the hike for the lake begins, I got my shoes wet in a big water crossing(apparently the water comes from Chandrataal) and upon seeing the tents, I persuaded my friends to stay here for a day. Also since Chandrataal is above 4000 mts, I thought it wud be fun to stay here.
We parked the bikes and dumped the luggage in the tents and started the hike. Within a span of 100 mts it became clear to me wat it means to hike in a place having thin oxygen. I was huffing and puffing like anything (same was the case with Nipin, but Som was ok).

The hike starts

On the way

First view of the lake

I did that intentionally

It took us around a hour or so to reach the lake but on reaching there the first words out of my mouth were, “If heaven exists, it exists here.” I have never seen anything more beautiful than this. Now we had two options, one just sit and admire the beauty or walk around the circumference of the lake (about 3 Kms). Me and som chosed the later option and Nipin the first one.
I went on clicking photos like crazy here.

Best mirrored shot i was able to get

My Fav

After completing the round around the lake, we sat there for around an hour and then returened to our tented accomadation. Had Maggie for lunch and than chit chatted with lot of foreigners who were trekking from Kunzum pass till the lake. Later the evening was spent just doing nothing, just seeing the scenery change colours with changing light . The most memorable part was when I and Nipin had to go for dumping the excreata out of our bodies in the dark Cold wind blowing through that part of ones body and then using cold water was.. wat to say..

Our tented accomodation

We crashed early tht night and the plan was to hit the road at day break. I wish to go to the lake at night when there is full moon some day. I can just imagine wat it wud be like..

Some night shots

Can you recognize the Scorpio constellation?? It on the right

Saptarishi (the big bear on the left)

THE LAST DAYS, 28 and 29 Aug, 2010

Well, everything which has a beginning has an end. This trip, although how much I wanted to never end, had to end. So the journey was now backwards to home. After seeing Chadrataal, I didn’t want to spend anytime anywhere midway. It was like I have seen everything and nothing can be as beautiful as my journey has taken me to different places.

So we started early from Chandrataal basecamp and the target was to cover as much as possible. In no time we reached Batal and the nightmare for bikers start from here. Its like driving on a dry river bed and the number of watercrossing till Manali are uncountable. Even the most experienced drivers dread this route(my perception). Nipin gave lift to a truck driver who’s truck had a broken axle till Chatru. He told us that broken axles, burst tyres and what not are common to this terrain. While driving the bike, I was feeling pitiable for my bike. Never ever I have driven on such a terrain. But wat was to come ahead is most forgetful part of my ride.

Chenab Valley

Chatru..

We reached Chatru at around 10 and had breakfast there. As we started from Chatru scenery changed from arid to green. But the road condition was in no mood to improve till Gramphu.

Bridge across Chenab..

Notice the greenery

Last view of Spiti

Nice black Tarmac after Gramphu

At Gramphu, road turned into nice tarmac, and we were ripping. We were nearing Rohtang and since it was a sunny day, we were expecting the road to be clear.

After Rohtang

Majestic

The ride till Rohtang was ok but after Rohtag, it was a real real real nightmare. 3-4 feet deep potholes, slush and wat not. Body was aching, bike was aching and prayers were all aloud for this to finish. As we neared Marhi, it was a much much awaited relief. The road condition improved and by the time we reached the beautiful Kothi, we were crusing.

Manali First view

We skipped Manali, as after what we have seen the last few days, seemed so phony. Had our lucnch at outskirts of Manali and the plan was to ride till we drop. The drop point came at Pandho. We checked the PWD rest house, which was available and dropped for the night.

PWD rest house.. Pandho

Bhakra Beas Dam.. Pando

Bhakra Beas Dam.. enroute Chandigarh

The next day had nothing much but to ride till home in Ambala. The day when I clicked less and cruised more. Stopped in KFC Chandigarh to satiate our longing desire for Chicken. From Chandigarh in no time we reached Ambala.
What is left when such a journey left. A LIFETIME TO CHERISH…………………….

Obviously not the last reading..

Annual Christmas holidays was about to began and my mind was swinging in between the yes and no of going on a ride. Whole of my being was aching for a ride, but logical mind was interrupting it with ‘going alone’ question. Honestly, the prospect of going alone to a unknown land kept me baffled for around a week and it was finally the 23rd of Dec tht the final decision was made to go for it. Well it was to be a solo ride for “i dont know how many days” and “I dont know all the destinations” with Kanyakumari being the foremost objective. Got the bike serviced on 24th and the day finished with packing and preparing mentally for the ride.

Alarm went off at 3 am on 25th morning and it was the day. Had already checked the route for to and fro journey on Google maps. By 5, I was ready. The weather was less col as compared to the other night or it was the euphoria making me warm. Well started towards Hosur road, which is just at hands distance from my place. Entered the service road as was not keen to chase the trucks early morning. And what a pleasant surprise. Hosur road can be quoted as the best road in Bangalore now. I drove till Narayana Hirudalya(around 18 kms) without a bump,without braking.. Hell, am i dreaming or it is real, occurred in my thoughts. So a good start to the ride. Encountered a small traffic pile up in Hosur and after that I was maintaining 80. Was baffled by car traffic on the highway as being a long weekend, I guess most ppl were heading towards finding peace.

Crossed Salem and headed towards Karur-Nammkal Highway. The roads were excellent till Salem and I hoped the same next also. Luckily roads didn’t disappoint me. Just before Karur, had the first meal of day at a roadside small shop serving traditional Tamil-nadu Sambhar with other things. I simply love the taste of sambhar in TN as opposed to Karnataka.

And the smooth journey continued till Madurai, with not a single piece of bad roads yet. NH-7 is smoothest highway i have rode yet. I have reached Madurai in less than 8 hours. Upon reaching  Madurai checked into Hotel Taj, just opposite to bus stand. A very basic hotel indeed. Plan was to visit Meenakshi temple in the evening so had whole afternoon to kill. What can substitute a siesta after a long ride of 450 kms. Woke up at around 5 and headed to the temple. As expected there was gr8 rush at the temple with long queues. However manged to reach the first stage after a wait of around 1 hour. Then was the daunting task of darshan. There again was a long queue of ppl wishful of taking blessing of the devi. However got to have darshan with the idol being at a miles distance from the pace of darshan. I don’t sometimes understand the concept in South Indian temples. Why is the deity kept so far away and poorly lit?

Anyways the plan for next day was to go to Kanyakumari. But as this was not going to be a planned  trip, after talking to my mother decided to detour to Rameshwaram which is about 170 Kms from Madurai on NH-42. The next day morning started after days break and my path ventured towards Rameshwaram . Initially road was ok, but later was cruising at good speed. The only problems in TN interior roads are that although roads are good, but they are also crowded by number of cattels left by ppl to graze on road sided. So its btr to be careful both at day as well as night.

Rameshwaram is an island connected to main land by a bridge over the sea. There is a separate bridge for railway as well. The bridge was crowded with curious onlookers who had jammed the traffic. However sneaked my way way through the jam and entered Rameshwaram. Straightaway went to temple to get darshan, which was done after standing in long queue for special darshan as well. Left Rameshwaram immediately as too much ppl make me dizzy and headed towards Dhanushkodi, which is supposed to be the starting point of the now non-existent bridge Lord Ram made to go to Lanka. If going to Dhanuskodi, dont miss the fish fry and the beautiful white sand beach. I think the area has a lot of potential for development as it has very beautiful natural long beaches. Left Dhanushkodi and had no plan for the day ahead. Riding all the way to Kanyakumari was out of question as it was around 350 kms and it was evening. With lot of thought came to Ramad, a place in between Rameshwaram and Madurai in hope of finding an internet cafe. Luckily found one and planed to go to Tuticorn(Thottukudi) which was midway to Kanyakumari. The important thing was to notice the small Tuticorn 120kms direction board just at the exit of Ramanad. If I had missed it, wud have to spend the night in Madurai. Being a state highway, the road was too gud. I think Karnataka can take one or two examples from TN atleast in maintaining the roads. Reached Tuticorn and checked into Hotel John. Was a very bad hotel in contrast to being almost a 3-star.

The third day was gong to be ride to Kanyakumari and was delighted as will be riding NH-7 again. From Tuticorn, the route is first to Thirunaveli which is a state highway and then NH-7 from there. Had the cheapest breakfast of my life after Thirnaveli. 2-appams and a cup of coffee for Rs 9 only. Bangalore sucks man..

As the distance reduced, my heart beat was increasing. There is a diversion which separates the road for Kanyakumari for main district Nagarcoil. The whole route after that was filled with wind farm on both sides of the road. I was amazed to see such a big wind farm in India. Finally reached Kanyakumari and after a long and frustrating search for hotels came to Vivekanand Kendra. It was also full, but when i told them that i am traveling alone, they were surprised and offered me to have (free)lunch at the kendra and then gave me a dormitory shared by two other ppl. The cost of one day stay was Rs 15 only. Wow man, what one can expect for Rs 15 in India. The ambiance inside the kendra was exhilarating. I planned to go nowhere tht afternoon and just explore the kendra and enjoy the serenity of the place.

The next morning got up at 5 and joined the queue to go to Vivekanand rock memorial. Luckily the first batch saw me visiting the place. The place if beyond description. But was marred by the ppl flocking it and making it feel like fish market. I intend to visit it again in some month when tourist is a rarity and plan to spend a full day at the place. Came back to kendra and after having breakfast planned to visit Kollam and Ponmudi near Trivendram.

The journey to Trivendrum was hell. So much traffic that I decided to cancel Kollam and Ponmudi for some future time and head towards Cochin. After crossing Trivendrum visited a beach called Varkala. Its a beautiful beach and was thronged by lot of foreigners. Headed towards Kollam and visit to the kollam beach which was  disappointing.  Decided to head towards Alleppy. The NH-47 was proving to be a nightmare for me. The journey from Kanyakumari till Kollam was bad but what was about to come was the worst ride i have ever done. The first problem is that NH-47 is single lane and touches the major cities of Kerla. Majority of Kerla’s population lives by this highway. You don’t get a stretch of road where there are no houses or devoid of population. Every single bit of the road side is occupied. Adding to this problem is the fanatic driving by the people on this road. Traffic coming from front, was all with their beams high, giving no way or space upon overtaking. My frustration level had reached its peak by the time I entered Alleeppy. Thought of staying here instead of Cochin and planned for some sight seeing the next day.

Luckily for me the next day was a strike day in Kerla. But I didn’t realized it till morning that petrol bunks were also shut down owing to the strike. Canceled my sight seeing in allepy as I had only half tank of fuel left. Thought of trying my luck and head towards Bangalore. Plan was that if I get no petrol bunk open, would stay in the first hotel in sight within 50 kms range after bike comes into reserve. Luckily got a petrol bunk open in Cochin and tanked up the bike and was sure to reach Tamil Nadu without any problem.

While planning the trip, had thought of visiting Athirapally water falls which are on the way to Thrissur from Cochin. While crossing a small place Chalakudi, saw a small board for deviation to the falls. It was a small 32 km drive one way to the falls. Was thrilled at the view of mountains after seeing the sea for so many days. The area is abundant with natural beauty. And man, the first view of the falls was breath taking. Had never seen waterfalls like this. Upon reaching athirapply, got the help of a very humble policeman who agreed to watch my bike and bag while i visited the waterfalls. There was a about 1 km climb-down to the falls. The view of the falls only reminded of the power of mother nature. After a trying climb back, the police man suggested to visit another falls which was just 5 km away from there. It was vazachal waterfall which was also worth visitng. On my way back saw a small detour road which was pointing to Munnar. However dropped the idea of going to Munnar and head towards Bangalore. The detour road was the most beautiful road i have ever seen . Wish to ride on it some day.

By the time I was hitting the main highway again it was 3 and I was badly hungry.Luckily someone pointed me to an open restaurant and be it the hunger i felt or something else has the best Chicken Biryani.

Now was the trying time. A very long distance to cover till Bangalore. However I was determined to reach Bangalore by tonight itself. Passed thrissur, Palakad and finally reached Coimbatore. Encountered some very rash driving on Kerla-TN border. It was a relief to reach Coimbatore. Stopped for a tea break here and started for Salem. The initial 30 kms was again the replica of the Kerla roads I have encountered from kollam to Aleeppy. However after that road becomes 4 -lane ( a delightful feeling) with small bad stretches, single lanes and traffic jams in between. Reached Salem at 9:30 pm. Had dinner at a roadside hotel. The distance remaining was 200 kms. Only fear was of dozing away while driving. But I reminded myself of my bed waiting for me at the home and shooed away towards Bangalore. The ride to Bangalore got completed in 4 hours with one single break and largely uneventful with roads being excellent. The only uneventful thing was the loss of one of my mobile. I dont remember where I lost it.

However reached Bangalore at 2 am and crashed for a full day of sleep.

Summary:

Route:

Bangalore-Salem-Madurai-Rameshwaram-Tuticorn-Kanyakumari-Trivendram-Kollam-Alleeppy-Cochin-Chalakudi-Athirapally-Vazachal-Chalakudi-Coimbture-Salem-Bangalore

No of Days : 5

Duration : 25 Dec 2009 to 29 Dec 2009

Distance covered : 1885 Kms

Ride : Me alone

Hotel Expense :

Madurai : Rs 500

Tuticorn : Rs 850

Kanyakumari : Rs 15

Alleppey : Rs 650

Precautions:

(i) Ride carefully on state highways in TN esp at night, as the roads are good but ppl and their cattle do not head to a vehical. Even on NHs in TN ppl dont care for a fast approaching vehical. Its advisable to slow down if encountered with somebody crossing the road.

(ii) Avoid going to southern TN and Kerla during Sabrimala Aaiyyppa season. This season begins in mid Dec and ends somewhere on 15 Jan.

(iii) Avoid NH-47 at all cost during night.

(iv) For Kanyakumari, if planning to stay in a Hotel, advance booking is a must. Otherwise they will charge you as per their wish.

Here is the link for photos

http://picasaweb.google.com/gautamsharma24/Kanyakumari09#

For centuries, the greatest quest for human being after being civilized(are we??) was quest for peace. Peace among nations, peace among societies, peace among families, and more importantly self peace or inner peace as the great saints and sages of all times have attributed it.

Sadly the truth might be different. Simply put to logic, two of the important branches of science viz Physics and Chemistry deals in laws of entropy. This law works at the very basic level of the matter i.e atoms. And according to this law of entropy the “Potential of Disorder” always tends to increase. We as humans often tend to think “matter” as everything other than us and mostly this every other thing is non-living. But actually we are also constituted of the same matter which surrounds us. So the disorder that exists is the very basic nature of that matter which constitutes us and the search of an equilibrium is almost a mirage. Peace is thus conspicuous by absence  to our sole nature. The search for it thus seems to be a great disillusion. And this struggle to achieve peace becomes a cause of the other fallacies of life. If we can choose to end the struggle to get to peace, we might be able to achieve the true sense of ourselves which is nothing but the “true nature of matter.”  This might be  the beginning of getting to know one selves..

Of-lately the frequencies of my bike rides had reduced a lot. In contrast to around 10-15 rides a year in 2007, it has come down to, only 2 rides till now,  in 2009. But the recent one, gave lot of time for, as Robert . M. Pirsog quotes in “Zen and the art of motorcycling maintenance” — THE CHAUTAUQUA.

So what this Chau-tau-qua is? As Robert explains it – in literal meaning were the old traveling tent shows which used to go around in America showcasing culture through series of popular talks. In the book, Robert experiences similar Chautauquas between him and his mind, as he analyzes different behaviours of people.

Well to talk more about the author and his book will be like a layman trying to explain contemporary art. The point of bringing in Chau-tau-qua was to give a different kind of word to the usual silent chit-chat which happens constantly in mind. Normally This chit-chat happens all the time, but it becomes meaningful when it is listened to or observed.

My recent bike trip was to Waynad in Kerla. It was not a preplanned trip. It was just that me and Gaurav(The Dude) were thinkin of busting our stress by going on a bike ride, that we singled out Waynad, as most of other options seemed unfeasable due to monsoon, and Waynad seemed like our only hope. We started in the morning and soon the weather Gods made their intentions clear, that there was no respite from rain, except for one might stay in Bangalore and keep dry.

Upon entering Waynad, we realised that as usual, one cant rely on the (dubious) weather forecasts. It was rainy, flooded, roads blocked with uprooted trees and electricity poles. After checking in into a nice hotel, the information we got was that every spot we planned to visit was closed due to flood or the chances of flood. So there it was, two days with lot of time to spare, no hurry to go any where, no fixed plans or schedules. Such a situation may seem like a waste of time and efforts, but since we were on a stress buster trip, it does’nt seemed to bother us at all. We has a nice nap and in the evening I and Gaurav decided to ride across the Tea plantations in Waynad.

As we started, I felt somehow different. Since initially the plan was to visit some fixed places, the case now was different. We were just going no where special or significant. The ride was free from thinking or planning anything. This was the moment when I was witnessing whats really going on in my mind. As I was riding through the tea plantations I felt a unusual serenity descending upon me which I have never felt before. It was as if for a moment I was in sync with my thoughts and my mind was at peace. Perhaps the thoughts were peaceful or without moments of conflicts and perturbance. Only when the thoughts are peaceful, mind is conflict free. And when mind is conflict free, it is then when one is really communicating with once mind. Its not a communication but more of a conversation with one-self, to which sometimes words can be attributed and sometimes not. Interestingly my mind asked me (or may be vice-versa) why I loved riding a bike after so much that has happened that day? The answer was not immediately ready but gradually as the evening sat-in, became more evident. I and my mind decided that lets feel it by riding the bike itself. So this was it. I was riding and me and my mind were witnessing, the pleasure we got by riding.

First it was the road that I was loving. Although the good roads are always preferred over bad ones. Mind hates bad roads and so as I. The roads, smoother ones, having curves, slopes are always a ride to please. To add to it, the weather plays a big role. The kind of scenery around the road   plays a vital role on the mood of ride. What I was watching around me at that point of time was a beautiful road, curved around small hills, embedded with Tea plants on them. The Tea plants gave hill a look of smoothed surface which eyes directly translate into a smoothier feeling. These hills were at the top surrounded by beautiful clouds having different colours and peaks far off visible in their mystical mistyness. What more can the heaven offer? I was pleasently smiling at all this.  But is it all? I have seen much better roads to ride upon. How can just all this satisy the criterion of giving wholesome pleasure..

One more thing I happen to observe around me were the people. I generally like isolated places or places lesser flocked with people during rides. As i go along, i tend to ignore persons on the way. But this time it was different. I was looking at people on the way. I could see a lot of new faces with some paying attention to two idlers riding their bikes and some just ignoring or paying no attention at all. Well not talking of the ones who ignored us, I just paid attention to the people who looked at us as we passed through. Some had a look of admiration in their eyes, some just laughed at us, some gave a look as if we were looking as idiots. But  the thing which appeased me a lot was the smile, I saw on some faces as we passed through. Although I cant exactly decode the purpose of that but seeing people smile that way automatically intiates a reflex action, wherein me also tends to have the same smile. So it was that smile which gives a pleasent feeling and always gives. If I now consider my other rides also, there would have been moments where I have encontered such smiling faces giving a “Life is beautiful” feeling inside. This uncalled for happiness is one of the greatest feeling of riding a bike.